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Amiga 600 Recapping Service PREMIUM


Amiga 600 PREMIUM capacitor replacement service using hybrid polymer capacitors (these never leak again!), all board revisions. NOTE this is NOT a repair service.

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Check of the board before recapping is begun

Before any work is started a full board check is done, if there are faults found i will contact you before recapping is done.

Removal of existing capacitors (both SMD and radial capacitors)

Professional tools and methods are used in removing capacitors, especially SMD components, so either hot air or soldering tweezers are used, along with materials like flux are used to aid removal. this by far is the best way to remove the capacitors as you don’t add any stress to the solder pads underneath (if using other methods you risk pulling up a solder pad and some of the track if your unlucky).

Cleanup and preparation of area

When the old capacitors are removed it will leave behind flux but also if they have leaked there will also be dried electrolyte on the board (you will smell a fishy smell if capacitors have leaked when removing) so the area is fully cleaned up with flux remover, IPA and then deionized water.

Replace using hybrid polymer capacitors

These capacitor will NEVER leak!

Retest (Video, Audio, Floppy Boot, CF Card boot, Mouse and Joystick port)

When retesting I plug in a floppy drive and a CF card to make sure the Amiga boots from both, I then test the sound from a selection of my favorite games (Cannon fodder, Chaos Engine or Micro machines) as I know what these should sound like and what channel the samples come from. I don’t charge extra for testing your board if I get into a game!

Recapping FAQ

As the Amiga computer age the capacitors will be prone to leaking over time, remember these are 20 plus years old so it’s a good preventative measure to replace the capacitors as once they leak they will eat through the copper circuitry and cause either permanent damage or an expensive repair job.

So in short what issues could cause:

  • Sound problems
  • Random rebooting
  • Guru Errors
  • Non booting
  • Floppy fails to work & then black screen.
  • Slow switching on

To prevent this all electrolytic capacitors are replaced.

The symptoms below could be caused by capacitor leakage:

  1. Slow turning on – This is a common fault, if the unit is powered and after an amount of time boots up, that is the sign the capacitors are tired.
  2. Audio is distorted  – This may resolve itself after the Amiga has warmed up, again capacitors are tired, however this could also be caused by another component failure.
  3. Random rebooting – you could be using the Amiga and it suddenly reboots.
  4. Guru Errors – These are not so common and could be caused by a hose of other possible issues like software incompatibility, or another hardware issue.
  5. Non booting – I see this more with the Amiga CD32.

Although capacitors can cause the above issues there is always a possibility that it could be caused by something else for example your PSU especially with issues with sound.

If your unsure if the Amiga 600, 1200, CD32, 4000 or 4000T  has been recapped you can do any of these checks:

  1. Brand of the capacitors – The brand of the ‘tin cans’ are more and likely will be SHOEI or ELNA and will be a light blue and dark blue in colour respectively.
  2. Small of fish – Yes if you small a fishy ammonia smell they have leaked and need replacing asap.
  3. SMD capacitors  – The colour of the solder will be a dull gray, even green. solder should be a clean silver colour.

The later Amiga computers in particular the Amiga 600, 1200, CD32, 4000 & 4000T have SMD (Surface Mount Devices) Capacitors these are surface mounted and like the ‘tin can’ aluminium capacitors there is a substance called electrolyte, this is a liquid, now this electrolyte within these SMD capacitors will eventually leak with time, the risk of this increases as the capacitor ages (even if the unit is used or not!) this is also compounded by the fact that Commodore used the cheapest capacitors available.


SMD Capacitors Amiga CD32
SMD Capacitors Amiga CD32

Yes that’s right! There are 2 capacitors that was installed incorrectly at manufacture, you see this more in the revision 3 board (not seen any in the rev 4 board) I have also seen some Rev 3 boards where the caps are installed correctly, however its hard to see if this was at manufacture.

You can tell if the capacitors have been installed the wrong way as you will see them bulging, the amount of bulging depends on how much they have been used, the ones below as you can see a bulging and have been installed incorrectly. look at the negative gray strip, if its like the image below they are installed incorrectly.

Amiga CD32 2 capacitors incorrectly installed

Yes! I do offer a premium service which uses Polymer capacitors. Polymer capacitors will never leak this is due to the polymer that is used once manufactured the liquid polymer will become a solid within a few hours hence why it will never leak as there is no liquid!

Traditional electrolytic capacitors has a liquid and hence prone to leaking as they age. However I use a good brand of capacitor and always use Panasonic or if I’m able to source it will be another trusted brand so these will still be good for 20 plus years. But polymer ones will last a lifetime.

Now some recappers use Tantalum capacitors, these are solid and used else where in the Amiga, however these are NOT suitable replacements for the electrolytic ones check out why in a separate FAQ.


Amiga Polymer Capacitors


NO!, simple as that, why? The Amiga when it was designed, was designed to use electrolytic capacitors in those particular circuits because they are fit for purpose, they have the correct characteristics required for that circuit and the circuit they have been installed in take in to account that.

When you replace the electrolytic capacitors with Tantalum ones these have different characteristics and thus you change the circuit. And yes Tantalum’s do not leak and may look very nice soldered on the board however unlike electrolyte capacitors, when Tantalum’s fail they do so with a bang and its far easier to repair leakage than a burnt board.

Below is one example of a Tantalum exploding in an Amiga.

Tantalum Capacitor Exploded in an A600


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How to send your board

All that needs to be sent is the mainboard (with or without its metal shielding), this should be placed in an Antistatic bag or newspaper (some plastic can conduct). Place this in a secure box with padding added bubble wrap is fine or crushed newspaper.

Make sure you put a note in the box to state who its from, return address and a printed copy of your order, if you don’t have a printer write down the order number on the piece of paper.